Earth-friendly organic wines worth tasting
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share thisGreen, sustainable, Earth-friendly, “eco”-everything — all have become consumer and marketing buzz words.
Like organic produce and all things “green,” organic wines have become commonplace. Earth Day allows us to reflect on better and different ways to raise crops and produce food.
Organic wines are made from grapes that were grown without synthetic chemical sprays or fertilizers. But organic growers do spray, usually “elemental” sprays containing copper sulfate and lime, and even bio-agents such as a bacteria that kills bad bugs.
You’ll hear some growers use the term “sustainable” — which basically means they are trying to do the right thing and only spraying if it’s really necessary. Zealots would call that a sell-out and “greenwashing.” Then there’s “biodynamic” — which are organically grown with dash of astrology and witchcraft.
These movements are great and offer wine drinkers options. But I wonder if they imply something is wrong with conventionally grown grapes and the wines made from them. There was a time when “prophylactic spraying” was common, and growers sprayed all the time and over-fertilized. Federal and state regulators routinely pull many chemical sprays off the market. Those left are rather benign and safe for workers and consumers when used properly.
For people committed to the earth and the environment, organic wines are a nice option. In general, organic wines have improved. A decade ago, finishing a bottle of many organic wines required true conviction. Not any longer.
California producer Bonterra is the highest-profile organic wine producer. Its wines are priced from $9 to $20 and they are full-flavored and food friendly. Bonterra Mendocino County 2006 Syrah has the classic profile of a good syrah. It’s inky dark with plum, mint and savory smells accompanying flavors of blackberry and bitter chocolate with a long finish. $18. HHHH
Bonterra Mendocino County 2006 Viognier has overripe mango and spice smells with rich mouthfeel and flavors of lime and peach. $18. HHHH
Mix organic ideals with astrology and Wicca under a full moon, and you get biodynamics, a technique of farming that harnesses the forces of the universe. It’s easy to snicker at the approach — which includes preparations of herbs and animal offal, and the burying animal skulls. But its difficult to laugh at the quality of some “bio-d” wines. Pacific Rim Wallula Vineyards Riesling, Columbia Valley, 2007, is a freshman effort of this Randall Graham-spawned winery’s approach. It smells very floral, vanilla and medicinal — a bit like first-aid cream. A medicinal edge continues with the taste and it lacks acidity and snap. I’m expecting better in years to come. For more information on biodynamics, check out www.demeter-usa.org. $32. HHH
You don’t need to completely buy into the organic movement to enjoy organic wines.
Grade: Exceptional HHHHH, Above average HHHH, Good HHH, Below average HH, Poor H.
Contact the writer: dfalchek@timesshamrock.com
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